As I walked into a local izakaya on my first night in Japan, 2 years ago, I was greeted by a glorious sight. There were around 4 or 5 people sitting on stools around an open bar, beers in hand, chatting away. I’m sure they would’ve barely noticed me if it weren’t for my 6 foot 5 German friend. As we walked in, we were welcomed with a hearty “irashaimase!” from the owners and presented with a paper menu.
I sat down next to a middle-aged man with a steaming plate of food in front of him. It smelled delicious, so I shyly asked him what it was. After the obligatory “Wow! Your Japanese is so good” (which it definitely wasn’t), he explained to me that what he had was something called “goya champuru.”
Today, I will introduce this dish as it was introduced to me.
“Bitter” isn’t a word often used to describe Japanese foods. Words like umami, spicy, and salty are typically what come to mind. However, bitter can be an overlooked but key component, as it is in goya champuru. Goya champuru is a stir-fry from Okinawa prefecture, made with bitter gourd, a protein of your choice, and vegetables.
The term “champuru” actually originates from Malaysia and Indonisia, coming from the word “campur” (cham-poor) which means “mixed.” “Champuru” in the Okinawan dialect is theorised to have been adapted from “campur.”
Common variations of goya champuru include either chicken or pork as the protein, green beans, bean sprouts, and carrots. But the star of the show has to be the goya itself.
Goya
This green, bumpy gourd is known for its sharp bitterness but has a watery, mild flavour underneath. If the bitterness doesn’t sound too appealing to you, you can always soak the goya in hot water for 30 seconds before frying it.
Goya has been used in Japanese cooking for decades, as it is famed for having health benefits.
The gourd is rich in vitamin C, with 150 grams of goya providing the recommended daily dose of vitamin C for a grown adult.
It is also full of potassium. Potassium helps regulate heart and muscle function and helps your body excrete excess salt, making it great for preventing high blood pressure.
Goya is popular in summer dishes, as it is also said to beat the heat.
Okinawa is famous after all for the longevity of its inhabitants so, think of the bitter taste as a sign that it’s good for you!
Izakaya Is The Place To Go
While Goya Champuru is rooted in tradition, it has also evolved to become a staple in modern Japanese cuisine. Today, this dish is widely enjoyed in izakayas throughout Japan, valued for its distinctive flavour and health benefits. Chefs add their own unique touches, experimenting with various proteins, seasonings, and presentation styles to create new and exciting variations.
If you find yourself in an izakaya and fancy trying something new, I would definitely recommend giving goya champuru a go. Even after all the years I’d spent learning about Japanese culture, I’d never heard of this dish, but I fell completely in love with it. Along with being struck by the awe of my own cluelessness, I was also struck by the variety of Japanese food.
